Ireland: the blarney in Kilarney

After the rigours and the rain of yesterday - not to mention a startingly indifferent meal in Kilarney, we set our sights fairly low on day four: just a quick tour round the lakes of Kilarney before driving up to our next Airbnb at Tralee.

Jan thought it would be nice to ride up through the Gap of Dunloe and then back to town in a scenic little loop, past the lakes. Mark and I weren't fooled for a minute but the route had the advantage of simplicity and, this being Ireland, you are never more than 100m from a coffee shop… 

But, as the road wound up the valley, it narrowed, forcing the coach passengers to disembark and take a strategically placed pony and trap up the hill. But there were few takers and, other than a few brave walkers, we had the road to ourselves. 

And, behold, it was good. Perhaps the prettiest bit of cycling we've encountered: no coaches, no cars, no cake shops - just a lovely little track crossing and cross-crossing the stream that tumbled down the hill. Oh, and no rain either. Hurrah! 

Caption time? Encouraged by Jan's helpful exhortations from the top of the hill, Mark decides to walk!

We reached the top of the pass in high spirits and set off along an excellent path through unspoilt valleys with a bit of off-road biking by one of the lakes to add to the adventure and some bike-carrying up a rough footpath to detract from it. We emerged at a charming crossroads where stream and bridge met sky and sun, inviting us to whizz down the 10km back to Kilarney for lunch. Still dry! Thanks St Bernadette.

One hiccough: we managed to 'forget' that we had some bikes on top as we emerged from the car park in Kilarney, until a nasty crunching noise brought our progress to a grinding, anxious halt. No serious damage, except to the roof rack and to our sang froid. 

Ouch!