Refreshed I set out for a walk around Nancy at 7:15. The sun is starting to burn off the early morning mist and everything is looking enchanting. I have been struck by the absolute difference between Germany and France and its not a gradual change but immediate. One side of the Rhine everything is clean on the other slightly grubby. On one side the is a universal conformity in building styles covering old with a lot of wood and flowers, new bland, and contemporary modern; on the other there is old with lots of stone, carving and wooden shutters, new bland but a different sort of blandness, and very little contemporary (in Nancy anyway). One side has no drunks or beggars, the other rather too many. Is France having some kind of slow burn destruction or is it just that I am in a city and perhaps the German social security is better; but I suspect that it something to do with personal/national pride and character. Also, driving styles are different. In Germany everyone is fast but courteous, waiting patiently; in France, I has better keep my wits about me as things are a little more erratic. Jony says that the old priorité a droite has finished but I think not and certainly the lady who drove out in front of me thinks the same!
After a few hours of looking at some magnificent and grand buildings I get the hankering for zipping round a bend or two. Continuing my way towards the Channel I find myself near the top of the River Semois which was our first great ride of the trip and so I do it again but backwards this time. You know what I mean. There is hardly anyone about and so I go as fast as I dare for about an Hour and then it is back on 'normal' roads. I have been known to remark that French roads are now better than ours. Well, I can now say that this is not always the case as I find I am on some atrocious surfaces. Sometimes I wonder if my fillings will stay in; but the best is where someone appears to have taken a harrow and left furrows all along the surface. Second to pure gravel this is one of the things that bikes, or more correctly, I hate.
I travel alongside the Meuse river and canal for many kilometres and pass many war cemeteries. The landscape of Northern France is not inspiring and as I pass many war graves I feel sorry for those inside who must have wondered why here and why now. Has the EU prevented another war or has the effect of 2 World Wars fought over the same territory meant that we have learnt our lesson; albeit only temporarily? As I ponder on this I start to feel that the EU as such has probably not had much to do with it when one considers the effects of international travel, the media (albeit with a strong USA bias), and more recently the web. And, although the Euro is no doubt convenient when travelling between the different countries in Europe, it does appear to be having a considerable destabilising effect. My conclusion(for now) is that the countries that make up the old EU are different but connected by history. Lets have a common market and so far as talking shop where we can make as many common understandings as possible; but I am not convinced by the undoubted aim of a federal Europe anymore so when one considers the non core countries now forming a queue to join. Again, a common market for all is desirable and it is through this that peace and understanding should be possible. Now, what about religious differences? Thus far for me on this subject at the moment. Why not make this a two way conversation? I don't know how. Jony, can blogs be interactive?
It seems along way but eventually I get to Cambrai which we passed through en fete on Day 1 and which looked rather enticing. Today it is not enticing and I can find only 2 hotels neither of which tempts me in and so I go on to the next city which is Arras. I have learnt not to expect lovely auberges in this area.
Arras starts badly as I see signs for an Ibis Hotel and after my very positive experience last night I want to go to this. Rather shamefully as I should be trying a quaint and authentic French hotel. I see many signs to the hotel all of which tell me to go straight on but it is never there. I ask to policemen who I have passed twice already and who are obviously on the lookout for dodgy drivers. This is a dangerous strategy given that I have to keep the bike revving hard when at standstill otherwise it will die. Fortunately they decide to give me directions rather that the third degree; unfortunately their directions are completely wrong.
When I do find the Ibis Hotel after asking 3 other people (what was that about having a GPS,Jony) it is full! Now I have a room in the Hotel Moderne which is moderne as in the 1950's are modern but it is a room and I am glad. I have walked up to the main square in Arras and the sun has been setting behind the extra agent tower of the town hall and the square is very well lite and I am having some good Leffe beer and a very good omelette and so things are looking rosy (in both senses of the world). Tomorrow I should be getting the ferry to England. How will it look? Indeed will I be able to see it as a traveller which, as Jony said, is what I have become or will it just be unexceptional?
Until tomorrow.
D.G.
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